Steam in China, February and March 2009

by Roger van Duijnhoven

Yanzhou/Zoucheng, Pingdingshan, Sandaoling, Jixi

Because it is still "the end of steam in China", we (Eelco de Graaf and I) made a 4 week trip (and our third farewell tour!) to China from 15 February - 13 March 2009. We visited Yanzhou/Zoucheng, Pingdingshan, Sandaoling and Jixi. It was my 15th trip to China and once again only to see and enjoy the steam locomotives. It is still marvellous to see (in 2009) so many steam locomotives in normal service! Also we wanted to visit "the last living QJs".

15, 16 February:
Fly this time by Lufthansa, LH4677 Amsterdam-Frankfurt and LH720 Frankfurt-Beijing, departure 14:40 and entry China next day 09:25 at (new) terminal 3.
After quick passport control and money change, we took the airport shuttle bus [16 Yuan] to Beijing station. We planned our first visit to Yanzhou because of the QJ operation there, with thanks to Dave Habraken for reports and information. However just two weeks before, we got the information that only one QJ was left and in Pingdingshan steam was gone! Faced with a choice, we decided in Beijing to still visit Yanzhou. So we bought tickets on the night train K101, only soft class [RW] available but no problem after our "jet lag" (dep. 23:20). After putting our baggage in a baggage locker, for the rest of the day we relaxed in Beijing-Xidan.

17, 18 February, Yanzhou/Zoucheng:
On 17 February we arrived (07:10) at Yanzhou. We checked in at JinJiang Hotel [128 Yuan]. From station, cross the station square and first street to the left, after 50m left-hand side, clean rooms and friendly staff. After coffee break and some "bammetjes and snelle jelle" [gingerbread] we call the taxi driver, recommended by Dave. [phone number: 13054950919, 280 Yuan/day]. A friendly man and of course he knows the locations we look for. First we went to DaDongZhan, and were glad to find two QJs [6811 and 7190] at the service point.

Around 11:00 hour both QJs left from DaDongZhan in the Nantun direction. Here we met QJ 6811 again, she was shunting the coal wagons in the mine. Here we were happy to accept an invitation to look inside the cab, and had a nice ride (with 40 KD18 loaded coal wagons) to Dianchang. Halfway we passed QJ 7190 returning in the Nantun direction. Back by taxi to DaDongZhan, just in time to see QJ 7190 leaving with an empty train in the Baodian direction. In the afternoon we visited Xinglougzhou and waited till the QJ left the mine back to DaDongZhan.
A perfect first day, so we celebrated this by a lovely "tángcù liji" meal.

Next morning we visited Yanzhou Coke factory. Here we met two other QJs in the depot. [6814+7126]. Until 08:00, both QJs are in "sleep mode", but then new staff arrive. At the top of the hill beside the depot you have a nice view, and can look at the daily servicing. QJ 7126 is the only high-deflector QJ I have seen here. Around 09:30 both QJs departed to the yard for shunting duties. In the distance you can see three other QJs (cold), but unfortunately not accessible. [a high wall].

After this we went to JiBei Railway, here 5 dumped QJs in depot. You can see QJ 7121 through the rear entrance, but entrance is of course prohibited. After this back to DaDongZhan again.
Both QJs were here, one departing in the Dongtan direction. But we made the wrong decision, following the other QJ in the Fucun direction. However in Fucun no QJ or train, and later on we found the QJ just beyond the long viaduct over CNR. No more activity this afternoon, so we returned to our hotel. Because we could not get sleeper train tickets on the overnight train to Pingdingshan, we took "snelle jelle" high-speed train D157 Yanzhou [19:52] to Zhengzhou [23:05]. In Zhengzhou we tried to buy tickets to Hami for four days later on, but unfortunately "méi yǒu"! [no tickets including period of 5 days and 5 different trains!]. So I gave a deep sigh and then went to our hotel for a good night's sleep.

19-21 February, Pingdingshan:
By bus [51 Yuan, bus station opposite railway station] to Pingdingshan, and checked in at "our" Jinxiu Hotel [128 Yuan] and after a [of course] coffee break we went by city bus 34 [1 Yuan] to the depot. Even though we had the bad news just before we left for China, we hoped for some steam on shunting duties, etc. However in the depot no working steam locomotive remained. Some dumped JSs and one JS and QJ cold but complete. [in reserve?]. Also later on JS 8122 drawn out of the workshop, pulled by a diesel, was also complete. For the rest only growling diesels, so we walked in the direction of Bakuang. After more passing orange grumblers we arrived in Bakuang, but still no steam…. [grrr, no, this was no diesel!]. In the depot we had seen some locals look in the ashes for coal (and as far as I know China diesels don't use coal?). We went back by city bus 2 and 34 to our hotel. With a good glass of beer and a delicious meal, we just hope for the best next day.

On 20 February first a quick visit to depot, sadly the same situation as the day before. So we first go back to Pingdingshan Fandian CNR office, try again to buy tickets for Hami. But because of a computer breakdown, this was impossible. We looked for a taxi, chartered it for one day, to see the QJs on the Yuzhou-line. We left northwards to "Xiao Liu" coal transhipment terminal, a few kilometres before Yuzhou, but unfortunately an empty yard. We got information from the stationmaster that there are still 4 steam locomotives in service nowadays. At present 3 in Pingdingshan(Dong) [grr…??] and one just further up the line. So we went eastward to a mine (sorry, I forgot the name) and found JS 8030!

After some shunting duties she waited in the yard with a loaded coal train. We expected her to pull out to the yard or Pingdingshan, but from then on no activity anymore (no engine driver available). Because of the unwilling taxi driver (and be fed up with it), we returned to Pingdingshan. In CNR office still a computer breakdown [yes, we had an "enjoyable" day! [but no really!]], so we went by city bus 34 and 2 to Bakuang. When we walked back to Pingdingshan Dong, we finally had more luck, JS 8030 passing with the loaded coal train. [around 16:30]. At the same time we saw a second JS in the distance to Tianzhuang. When we arrived Tianzhuang, we met QJ 6690. She came out from the depot and went to Pingdingshan Dong. A last look in the depot and then back to the Hotel.

Next day we decided not to stay longer in Pingdingshan. It was clear that steam is over, except for 4 locomotives on the Yuzhou-line. (I suppose 2 x JS and 2 x QJ). By bus we went to Zhengzhou [with a multiple bus crash in bus station!] and immediately went to the ticket office. Once again trying for tickets to Hami, or Lanzhou, etc, but again "méi yǒu"!! So we bought tickets to Beijing Xi. We enjoyed a good dinner and "tángcù liji" meal in a restaurant next to the left of the station. With "snelle jelle" high-speed train D132 [08:06] we departed for Beijing Xi, arriving at exactly 22:57. [Yes, China Rail is really perfect]. Again immediately to the ticket office, I had already drawn up a plan-A to D again for our next journey (because of the "méi yǒu" in Zhengzhou), but sleeper-tickets for T69 to Hami? "No problem"!! (So conclude from this, buying tickets in advance is possible in all stations. Like in Zhengzhou, a lot of through trains, but limited tickets. If a station is starting point of a train, you have more chance of success).
We checked in at Beijing Dou Shi Hotel [300 Yuan]. From station, to the left, go across the parking place and follow the main road. After 100m. left-hand side you can see a passageway (beside China Post distribution centre). The rooms are clean, friendly staff and free internet in the hall.

22, 23 February:
Well rested, we withdrew extra cash by ATM [indeed a better rate than money exchange, maximum 2000 Yuan/day]. A day relaxing in Xidan and at night we took train T69 [18:44] from Beijing Xi, always an impressive station. So we were on the way to the west, a one-way train journey of 3215 km! I know some people give preference to domestic flights, but we don’t want to jump as grasshoppers through China! A train journey is a holiday too and you can take part in Chinese everyday life, meet people, look at the beautiful landscape and enough coffee [always free boiled water]. By the way, hard sleepers [YW] are (in my opinion) not a bad choice, the sleeping cars are clean, comfortable and safe [well social control].

24-27 February, Sandaoling:
At 04:14 we arrived in Hami. Here we met our local guide [Ms Nuer (and Ms Gou Li)] and driver. It was the first time we made use of a guide in China. (I know, always a point of discussion, but in this area (special the opencast mining area) you need a permit for a visit, like Baiyin, etc.). By car we went to Sandaoling [ 三 道 岭 ] and after about one hour we arrived in Liushuquan [ 柳 樹泉 ]. One JS in the yard, however the sunrise here (in the west) is late [around 07:30 hours]. We first went to Sandaoling and checked in at our hotel [Sanhe Hotel]. After breakfast in a local eating-house, we went to DongBoliZhan.

Here several JSs in depot and of course the inescapable pictures of steam at sunrise. Between 08:00-09:00 you can look at the daily servicing. Also met SY "passenger" (SY + 2x box cars + caboose!), departing around 08:00 to XiBoliZhan.
The weather was beautiful: cold, sunny and clear. We stayed some considerable time in DongBoliZhan and afterwards went to NanZhan. Here other JSs in service and also one SY. At around 11:00 hour we left in the direction of Liushuquan. JS 6208 brought an empty train [C64 type] from CNR to NanZhan. Shortly afterwards a second and longer train from CNR Liushuquan, now pulled by two JSs (head and tail). With the beautiful mountains in the background and hard working JSs, a marvellous spectacle!

Back in Sandaoling, [Ms Gou Li went back to Hami] we had lunch in a local restaurant and afterwards visited Erjing. A quiet location, one SY for shunting duties and later on one JS brought C64 type wagons towards the mine. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon we went to XiBoliZhan, seeing several other JSs with spoil trains to the dump area. Finally a great view in the west side of the opencast mine, we were impressed by the view and a lot of spoil and coal trains. A wonderful first day in Sandaoling and towards evening we went back to our hotel and had dinner in Sandaoling.

Next day, 25 February, we started in DongBoli again and also walked along the railway line to the west-side, cold but clear weather and again a very nice sunrise.

Late in the morning a short visit to NanZhan. We obtained information from train control that this morning no trains from CNR. Accompanied by Mr Fu (from mining main office) we went to the workshop, 3 x JS inside, one having an overhaul. A wonderful atmosphere, to see the hard work and repair of the steam locomotives, the use of technology that is almost lost in the world, certainly in western countries! For us, not only an interest in "taking snapshots" of steam, but also in the technical aspects of the Chinese locomotives (of course in comparison with our German steam locomotives at VSM). Also, the workers were interested in pictures of western locomotives, a simple way to make contact with them.
Anyhow, we had a fantastic visit in the workshop. I got the information that steam locomotives get overhauls at least every 3-5 years.(!?!)

After this we went to Liushuquan. JS 8366 brought a long empty train from CNR to NanZhan, again a splendid sight. In NanZhan Mr. Fu approached two Danish filmmakers. He knows they don't have permits, so had "to chat" with them. Finally not arrested (because they promised to return to their hotel and leave next day (?)), but they had to stop taking film.
The rest of the afternoon we stayed on the west-side of the opencast mine. Here the spoil trains come out of the pit (a steep incline) to XiBoliZhan and further to the dump area. Also some spoil trains climb by way of zigzag from deeper out of the pit. With an incredible panorama and everywhere hard working JSs, often with a great sound, we stayed here until evening. Back in Sandaoling we again had a delicious meal together with Ms Nuer, Mr Fu and chauffeur "ling-ling-er". [002]. (nicknamed, because he nicknamed me "ling-ling-qi" [007] (Roger …..Bond, you know?)

Our next and third day, 26 February, started in DongBoli again. Besides in depot, we also walked along the railway line to "KengKangZhan", with a number of passing trains. Here you also can find the coal trains from the pit to the washery. At noon we went to Liushuquan. Taking photographs at Liushuquan (CNR) station was prohibited by police, so we waited at the line, watched 2 JSs (head and tail) with a long empty train. When they arrived in NanZhan, 2 other JSs returned to Liushuquan [around 13:00]. But we decided to visit the east-side of the opencast mine (near by Sandaoling). In this near side of the pit not much rail traffic, no spoil trains but only a few coal trains from the west-side of the pit to DongBoliZhan. You can see an old railway yard and several railway lines, of course now broken up. A big explosion down the pit breaks the silence!

After lunch we went to XiBoliZhan to visit the dump area. In the afternoon always a lot of rail traffic here. The only problem is you never know which direction (about 6 different lines) the spoil train takes from XiBoliZhan. For a considerable time we watched the spoil trains here, and finally we went back to the west-side of the opencast mine, a continuous fantastic place! In one moment we saw 13 JSs in the pit and in one of my films you can see/hear 5 JSs at the same time hard working! So, take a chair and enjoy the spectacle.

Last day in Sandaoling, 27 February. Now we first went to XiBoliZhan. Until 08:00 hours the (spoil) train traffic is busy. From then on all trains get to XiBoliZhan stand still. New staff arrive and the locomotives get their daily servicing. As a result of this, a line-up of seven JSs cheek by jowl!

At 08:15 a further (eighth) JS with the passenger arrived in XiBoliZhan (from DongBoliZhan) and between times the passenger went back and forth down to the pit and back to DongBoliZhan again. From 09:00 the spoil trains began one by one with their duties. Afterwards we went to the west-side of the opencast mine again, but now went down into the pit. Of course a new view of the mine and JSs, sometimes surrounded with lovely sulphur fumes. As well as all the spoil and coal trains, a SY with steam crane with a group of workers was busy moving railway track to a new position. We stayed a long time in the mine (of course watching the spoil trains) and after (you wish always to stay here!) we went to Nanguan. First we visited the "scrapheap" near the workshop. 14 JSs and 2 SYs are dumped here, and some other cranes and wagons. Unusual if you see in the background some JSs in daily service! After lunch (mutton-steak in a local eating-house) we visited the workshop again. Saw JS 8194 boiler washout (yes, with the wrong manufacturer plate of 1995! It's 1987, just look at the other side!) and JS 8053 again with her overhaul. During our visit JS 8053 got back to life.

Air pump etc. testing and her first movement to outside the workshop. Our last visit was the west-side of the pit again. After a last view a sad parting from Sandaoling, back to our hotel and by car to Hami. After dinner we stayed a few hours in a "one hour room" (no, not for that reason!) for shower and some rest, then said good-bye to our guide(s) and took T70 (02:17!) to Beijing Xi.

28 February-02 March:
A long and nice train journey back to Beijing. Beautiful scenery again, including the "old and new" great wall, mountains and a SY near Lanzhou [hot-water supply]. On 1 March [13:38] we arrived in Beijing Xi and immediate bought tickets to Mudanjiang for next day. [yes, you have to love travelling by train!] We checked in at Beijing Dou Shi Hotel and after freshen up and coffee (yes, we had extra coffee in stock!) we went to Xidan. A relaxing afternoon and on a full stomach back to the Hotel.
Next day first by taxi to Beijing station and by K265 [12:50] on the way northeastwards.

03-07 March, Jixi:
On 3 March we reach Mudanjiang [08:53] and saw QJ 6980 outside the workshop [of course cold]. We bought our next tickets and then by bus [36 Yuan] "go on a pilgrimage" to Jixi. Bus (station) is on the right-hand side of the station. Some people prefer to travel by bus, but after 2.5 hours of loud sound and two boring American B-movies (and be really fed up with it) we finally arrived in Jixi!
A short walk [400m] from the bus station in the direction of the railway station and we checked in to the Jixi Fandian (hotel), just across from the station, nice room, clean and warm water [100 Yuan]. After a break and cup of coffee, we went by city bus 3 [1 Yuan, from hotel to the left and bus stop at first crossing] to Chengzihe, terminus just before the railway triangle. We walked to Nancheng and Beicheng. Trains and rail traffic as per usual (like last year), but of course still splendid to look at the SYs. Sometimes they are hard working if they have to push a loaded train to Beicheng. Towards dusk we went back to Jixi and found "our" restaurant, so we order a lovely "tángcù liji" meal.

Next day, 4 March, we went to Chengzihe-system once again. Today the temperature was cold, but clear sky. First in the morning to Dongsheng, where there are always about 7 SYs together for daily servicing. The rest of the morning we walked between Beicheng and Dongcheng, including a short walk in direction of Zhengyang. Today we met the second 'foreigners' on our trip in China, 2 x Japanese. Just a relaxed day, but enough to see and enjoy! In the afternoon in direction of Jixi Xi, waited for a train, and around 14:15 SY 1369 made a good speed on the hill near the bridge! A very nice sound for your ears!

Later on we waited at the small level crossing and met the next train, also making a good speed up the hill! Well satisfied we walked back to Nancheng along the line, crossing some crystal-clear black streams. Just before Nancheng a loaded coal train with roughly 40 wagons passes by. By the way, nothing seen of electrification and/or poles, only the 8 electric locomotives under the carport in Nancheng. A last look in the depot and then back to Jixi by city bus 3.

On 5 March we stayed in Didao-Hebei. By bus 24 [from hotel to the right and after 10.5 steps to the main road, 2.5 Yuan] to Hebei and got out near the washery. Until 09:00 all 5 SYs were in the yard. Watched the shunting duties and afterwards walked to Lijing mine. On the hill you can follow the SY from Lijing mine to Hebei, and then most interesting: the climb up to the tip (zigzag). A second SY shuttle is between Hebei and a (new?) mine (on the hill, not zigzag, but to the right).

Back to Hebei and watched shunting duties and depot activities. A cold and relaxed day, but again enough to see and enjoy!

6 March, we went to the Chengzihe system again. The weather was cold and snowing. So we started with making Christmas card this year in Nancheng. Here we saw the third 'foreigner', he was taking such close up (rivet?) pictures in the depot, the driver almost stumbled over the camera. But we stayed on the railway line to enjoy a hard working (and often with spinning wheels) SY from Jixi Xi to Dongcheng (mostly around 08:00 hour), with more then 40 empty C64 type wagons. Just great!! Rest of the morning stayed in Beicheng and Dongcheng, including three nice departures from Dongcheng up the hill to Beicheng. We also looked at the west-side of Dongcheng, but here we found a cold breeze and only one SY. In the afternoon walked in direction of Jixi Xi, and stayed about 500m before the bridge. Here we wanted to make shots of the long loaded coal train, mostly around 15:00 – 16:00 hour. But waiting almost 2 hours, in a cold wind with a wind-chill of -15c, I felt as a penguin in a freezer! Just when we wanted to walk back to Nancheng, a SY came with a 38 wagon loaded coal train. Fantastic again and strange how fast you forget the cold! We decided not to take the bus, but walked back to Nancheng.

Here we had a second surprise, again a hard working SY with around 40 wagons loaded coal train from Dongcheng to Jixi Xi!
Well satisfied, we went back by bus 3 to Jixi and our restaurant.

Our last day in Jixi, 7 March, we went to Didao-Hebei once again. We spent our time this morning in Hebei and on the hill to the tip, dry, but cold wind today. In Hebei we met the same engine driver as last year, so we had a nice conversation and warm up in a SY. After watching some shunting duties and depot activities, we went in the afternoon back to hotel for warm up and co….. (you know). After this we went to Nancheng and direction of Jixi Xi, to wait for the afternoon train. In glorious sunlight we saw a SY with a short train come "on high speed" towards Jixi Xi. At the end of the afternoon a second train came past with a deafening noise, a great farewell of our visit to Jixi! A last view of the bridge in the setting sun (of course with a SY) we went back by local bus to Chengzihe and took city bus 3 to Jixi.

08 March:
Because of missing steam in Pingdingshan, we had two extra days. I already planned the possibility for a short visit to Tiefa and/or Shenyang. However we decided not to go to Tiefa (nice, but only two SYs, and just seen a dozen of SYs!), so we went back to Yanzhou again to see "the last living QJs". After a morning rest, we went by bus [37 Yuan] to Mudanjiang. No, this time the music was not too loud, but a "romantic" World War II film with of course a lot of shooting. In the second part, again a boring American movie with more shooting and bloody killing / second! Fortunately the bus chauffeur drives as if it was a summer's day on the snow covered expressway and probably didn't see his colleague beside the road, with his bus upside down? Anyhow, we arrived in Mudanjiang behind the station, so had to walk round.
After a lunch we took train 1452/1449 [15:30] to Yanzhou. Yes, I give preference to travel by train, quiet background music, food and drink on board and enjoying the scenery and a good night's sleep.

09-11 March, Yanzhou/Zoucheng:
On 09 March we arrived (21:03) at Yanzhou. We checked in at JinJiang Hotel again and call immediately our taxi driver for next day. Of course he was surprised to see us again.

On 10 March we went to DaDongzhan and met QJ 6811 at the depot. Soon after that QJ 7190 arrived [via railway triangle] with an empty train from Nantun in DaDongzhan-yard.

Now both QJs took coal in the depot and after a while went to the service point for water and lubrication. QJ 7190 went with an empty coal train to Dongtan, but we stayed in DaDongzhan. QJ 6811 had some shunting duties and brought 3 loaded KD wagons to the depot to replenish the coal stocks. Yes, the crane driver had a busy day! At the end of the morning we went to Dongtan. Here QJ 7190 had some shunting duties in the mine, and afterwards she departed with a long loaded train to DaDongzhan. (nice!). We followed the train up to Nantun, but because of the bad road condition here, we "lost" our train. So we went to Dianchang but meanwhile the train had already arrived in the power plant. We decided to wait in Mengsuo, because the QJ had to come back. After about one hour waiting, we heard an unexpected sound! QJ 6811 came in opposite way with a fantastic "QJ-beat" round the bend with a KD18 loaded coal train!!! A splendid sight and sound!

Soon after that, QJ 7190 came from Diancheng with an empty train, in sunlight and "the nose in front", to Mengsuo. We went back by taxi, but saw QJ 7190 waiting in the station halfway. [near to railway triangle to Beisu]. After a single diesel went by, QJ 7190 had a nice departure in the direction of DaDongzhan.
A perfect day again, so we celebrated this by a lovely "tángcù liji" meal next to our hotel and a good glass of beer.

Last day, 11 March, we stayed in the morning once again in Yanzhou Coke factory. Both QJs were in the depot and we watched the depot activities between 08:00 – 09:30 hours.

After this there were no shunting duties, because the yard was almost empty. We went to DaDongzhan and found both QJs in DaDongzhan-yard, but both in "stand-by" mode. The weather was sunny and warm, so we spent quite some time next to both QJs. We expected some activity in the afternoon, but nothing happened. No train (steam or diesel!) to be seen in 5 hours…….. Anyhow, we made our farewell photos and have ourselves immortalised with the QJ 6811. [I suppose this was "the last living QJ" we will ever see. I don't expect any QJs to be in service by the end of this year, certainly not due to the condition of the locomotives, but just the economic and political situation now in China.] We went back to our hotel and said good-bye to our taxi driver. After dinner and check out, we took the night train K52 [21:29] to Beijing.

12, 13 March:
On 12 March we arrived right on time (05:13) at Beijing. Here the train journey through China [12,680km!] had come to an end. We first went to Xidan [Jian Yuan Hotel], but we don't recommend this hotel anymore. [new and arrogant staff!], so we went once again to Beijing Dou Shi Hotel. On our last day in Beijing we visited the Lama temple and did some necessary shopping.

Friday the thirteenth! Yes, a bad start this morning! After check out we wanted a taxi to Xidan, because there is the starting point of the airport bus. But a long queue at the taxi rank in Beijing Xi, outside no taxi or overcharged, so we walked to a metro station. But of course, overcrowded metro [impossible with luggage!], so after 5 trains we got out to the main road. Here we tried to hail a taxi, but suddenly no cars anymore? Yes, a military convoy (military in buses) and a lot of "big cars with important people" pass by [hum…]. So after several minutes we hailed a taxi and went straight to the airport. After this a pleasant flight back to Frankfurt and Amsterdam.

For the numbers enthusiasts:

Roger van Duijnhoven

© 2009 Roger van Duijnhoven